Myanmar

Nyaung Shwe Inle Lake Landscape

Travel stories of backpacking across Myanmar, including an 8-day itinerary and detailed guides on the major sights.

2-day trek from Hsipaw to Palaung hill tribes of Myanmar

The 2-day trek from Hsipaw to the remote Palaung hill tribes of Myanmar

Off-limits to foreigners until very recently, Hsipaw is now an increasingly popular destination for backpackers and trekkers looking for an ...
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Mandalay Palace From Up Top

A backpacker’s itinerary for 8 days travelling in Myanmar

Fresh off recent democratic elections, Myanmar is slowly freeing itself from the shackles of military rule and opening up to ...
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A backpacker’s itinerary for 8 days travelling in Myanmar

Mandalay Palace From Up Top

Fresh off recent democratic elections, Myanmar is slowly freeing itself from the shackles of military rule and opening up to outsiders. Bordering the regional heavyweights China and India up north, and with the booming South East Asia down south, the country is poised to be an exciting country to watch.

With that in mind, now’s a good time to explore Myanmar, before it becomes Macdonaldsified.

Day 1: Yangon

Most international flights arrive and depart from Yangon, Myanmar’s largest city and former national capital. Assuming you land in the morning, make a beeline to the regional bus station to buy your tickets out of Yangon to Bagan on an overnight bus.

From the bus station, hop aboard bus 43 that heads towards the city. There’ll be many taxi drivers and touts loitering around looking for tourists to say, “No bus to city. Taxi only!” Ignore them.

The main sight in Yangon is the Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar’s most sacred Buddhist temple complex built atop a hill. From the nearest bus stop (ask the driver), walk 15 minutes across a park to the pagoda. Head up one of the four entrances and walk clockwise around the stupa. You can easily spend half a day, grab dinner, then return to the bus station in time to catch the 8pm bus.

The grand Shwedagon Pagoda
The grand Shwedagon Pagoda
Bus station in Yangon
Bus station in Yangon

Day 2: Bagan

Overnight buses in Myanmar are surprisingly comfortable, and you’ll reach Bagan at 5am in the morning after a good rest. Book the bus ticket for tonight’s bus ride to Mandalay, and try to find a cheap hostel or guesthouse to grab a shower and safe-keep your backpack for the day.

The bus station in Bagan is 20 minutes away from the main commercial district of New Bagan, and you’ll need a taxi to get there. Prepare yourself for tough negotiations, as taxi drivers will swarm around the busload of tourists demanding to take you to town for double the official fare of 8,000 Kyats.

After settling in New Bagan and enjoying a proper breakfast, start your tour of the ancient stupas and temples that dot the landscape. The best way to explore the place by yourself is with an e-scooter, which does not require a license to operate. But at the very least, you’ll need to be able to balance and ride safely on the main road. Otherwise, follow a tour or hire a taxi to get around.

That's one way to travel in style in Bagan
That’s one way to travel in style in Bagan

You can temple-hop in two ways – with a preplanned itinerary and a map, or just randomly stopping by every other temple and peeking in for a quick selfie. It takes a fair bit of effort to follow a plan, so you’re better off listing several main temples to visit, and just checking them off the list without following a fixed route. In any case, try to your visit to Pyathagyi Hpaya just before sunset, and you’ll be rewarded with one of the best sunset spots in town.

At night, grab dinner at Nyaung-U, a town replete with the chill backpacker vibes of Bali and Siem Reap. From there, return the e-scooter and head back to the hostel to collect your backpack. If you booked a bus, the company will send a van to pick you up and transport you to the bus station directly.

Bicycles are an eco-friendly but slow way to explore the ruins
Bicycles are an eco-friendly but slow way to explore the ruins
Kids playing on the top of ancient temples
Kids playing on the top of ancient temples
Bagan landscape
The view of the Bagan landscape from Pyathagyi Hpaya

Accommodation

If you’re looking for a cheap place to leave your bags for a day, try the Bagan Central Hotel. There’s private rooms that cost less than US$25 per day, and it comes with an ensuite bathroom. They also offer hostels, although you’ll have to lock your stuff up securely if you’re going to explore Bagan for the entire day. Check out the latest prices and room availability.

Additional information

There’s so much more to Bagan than just ancient temples! Check out Our World To Wander’s excellent post on the sunrise and sunset of Bagan.

Day 3: Mandalay

The former royal capital of the Burmese empire needs at least 3 days to fully appreciate the sights, but you’ve got 8 days and you’re already almost halfway through it. The bus from Bagan reaches Mandalay in the dead of the night at around 2am, so try your best to bargain for a cheap 15 minute ride to town. It’s probably a good idea to have a place in mind this time round.

The next day, get an early start to the train station and book tickets on the Gokteik Railway to Hsipaw (4am, USD 16). Book the upper class carriage with reserved seating, you won’t regret it. From the train station, rent a bicycle and cycle towards Mandalay Palace – it’s located on an island almost in the middle of the city, so it’s pretty accessible. The island itself is controlled by the military, so you can only get in from the East Gate, where you need to leave your bicycle and walk in.

Mandalay Palace is a museum that still retains much of its original architecture and interior, albeit without the royal family living within. Spend a few hours checking out the palace grounds, and climb up the watchtower for a good view of Mandalay Hill… because that’s where you’ll be cycling to next.

Mandalay Palace from above
Mandalay Palace from above

Mandalay Hill is located in the north of the city. It’s crowned by a picturesque temple offering an amazing vantage point to catch the sunset (again). You can either take a taxi up, or climb many flights of stairs to the top. As you do so, you’ll pass Buddhist shrines at each turn. I recommend taking the stairs, which is not as physically demanding as it would seem from the start.

At night, visit one of the many classy restaurants in town. Tripadvisor’s your best bet, but BBB restaurant has my vote during my visit. Spend the night at Mandalay (at last!)… you have an early morning train to catch at 4am.

Climbing up the stairs to the top of Mandalay Hill
Climbing up the stairs to the top of Mandalay Hill
Sunset at Mandalay Hill
The sunset at Mandalay Hill offers an unparalleled view of the city at its best

Accommodation

As you’ll be spending a night in Mandalay and leaving in the wee hours, I recommend a private room again. The Mandalay White House Hotel is located somewhat further from the city centre, but you can borrow a bicycle from them for free. It takes about 20 minutes to cycle from the hotel to Mandalay Hill, which is a pretty good way to travel across the city. Check out the latest prices and room availability.

Day 4: The Gokteik Railway

Wake up bright and early at 3am and head over to the train station to catch your ride up into the hills. This train ride trundles towards the Chinese border city of Lashio, and cuts through scenic farmland, lush jungle and eventually, the highlands. You could also do the same journey by bus, which runs almost alongside the tracks… but then you’ll be missing the highlight of the entire journey, this:

Gokteik Viaduct in Myanmar
The Gokteik Viaduct conquers a deep chasm with remarkable human engineering
Riding into the sunset (No Photoshop used!)
Riding into the sunset (No Photoshop used!)

The Gokteik Viaduct was built by an American firm under contract by the British. It had the highest span of any bridge in the British Empire back when it was built. Crossing across dramatic gorge, the train slows to a crawl as it trundles over a narrow line. Heads and hands will stick out of the windows clamouring for a photo. You might be prevented from taking a photo at times though, as the Gokteik Viaduct is considered to be of strategic importance.

From the Gokteik Viaduct, it’s another 3 hours to Hsipaw to the remote hill tribes of the Shan State in Northeastern Myanmar. By time you reach, it’ll be probably nightfall. Give yourself a pat on the back. It’s been a 15 hour ride up. Time to get some rest, a strenuous 2-day trek starts tomorrow.

Accommodation

Hsipaw is a small town, and much of the backpacker scene happens in Mr Charles’ Guesthouse, one of the earliest backpacker hostels to pop up in this remote town. While reviews are mixed, this is a good place to meet other backpackers and find travel companions for the road ahead. Check out the latest prices and room availability.

Day 5: Trek to the hill tribes from Hsipaw

There are two relatively accessible treks to check out the hill tribes of Myanmar. Most tourists would head to Kalaw, but in recent years Hsipaw has been gaining popularity as a less touristy alternative.  Just a decade ago, Hsipaw and the surrounding areas was still restricted to foreigners. Rebels once operated in this thick jungles, but not anymore. Reports of people getting blown up by landmines still happen occasionally though.

If you did not stay at the guesthouse overnight, it’s possible to go over to the guesthouse early in the morning and book a 2-day hill tribe trek out of Hsipaw immediately. It’s advisable though to contact them to reserve a place first. At the same time, book an overnight bus to Nyaung Shwe after the trek. Since you’re already on the 5th day, there’s hardly any time to spare if you get delayed!

Mr Charles Guesthouse
Mr Charles Guesthouse

The trek starts right from the guesthouse, and is done entire on small muddy trails, steep inclines and small mountain roads. Wear a good pair of waterproof hiking boots and carry light. Bring along a change of clothes in a waterproof bag, as there’ll be a chance to bathe at night.

You’ll also stop over at a Palaung village for lunch, hosted by a local villager. It’s a humble meal of vegetables and fruits, but expertly cooked with fresh ingredients.

By twilight, you’ll reach the village to spend the night in a hut. Rest well, since it’s going to be a long trek back to Hsipaw tomorrow.

Palaung hill tribe trekking
Every turn along the trail opens up new jaw-dropping views
Spend a night living in remote villages
Spend a night living in remote villages

Day 6: Trek back to Hsipaw

Wake up bright and early to the laughter of village school-kids outside the hut. You’ll have some time to wash up and eat breakfast before heading out again. The path back takes almost the same route, so expect to reach Hsipaw by early afternoon.

Back at the town, get washed up at the guesthouse, grab a quick bite or buy some snacks, and head over to catch the 4pm bus to Nyaung Shwe, the nearest town to Inle Lake.

Day 7: Inle Lake

The bus arrives at Nyaung Shwe at 7am, just as the town stirs to life. Nyaung Shwe is the largest town near to Inle Lake. There’s plenty of guesthouses, hotels and restaurants catering to an international clientele. If you’re booking a resort-style hotel by the lake, you need to hire a taxi or tuktuk to travel another 30 minutes to the lake. Each resort is largely on its own, so you need a driver and car.

Getting to Inle Lake from Nyaung Shwe is straightforward. Along the river that runs along the town, boatmen and touts seek out tourists for a ride across the lake. A 2-hour ride from town to the Cat Monastery and the Floating Gardens cost 5,000 Kyats for the boat. A full day tour can can go as low as 15,000 Kyats for the whole trip.

The fishermen of Inle Lake
The fishermen of Inle Lake are famed for their very unique fishing techniques

After the Inle Lake experience, grab a bike or hire a taxi and head to the nearby Red Mountain vineyard. A 20-minute drive from town and up the hills, the view opens up to grape vines and a panoramic view. Find an outdoor table at the restaurant, order a bottle of the surprisingly-drinkable wines, and wait for sunset. Most assuredly, you couldn’t possibly find a more magical way to end a whirlwind trip to Myanmar.

At night, ask your guesthouse to help book the 7pm overnight bus back to Yangon for your flight out. You’ll have to rush from the vineyard, so do prepare your backpack beforehand.

Accommodation

Kick back and relax for this last leg of your trip without spending a fortune. Hotel Maine Li is an affordable and central that’s absolutely spotless. You can also borrow bicycles to explore Nyaung Shwe on wheels, and cycle along the trail that borders Inle Lake. Check out the latest prices and room availability.

Day 8: Back to Yangon

The overnight bus reaches the Yangon bus station at 6am, the same place you began your trip 8 days ago. Take a taxi to the airport to catch your flight out, or book your next bus ticket out of Myanmar. There’s still more to explore in this country, so start planning your next adventure soon!

Travel Itinerary For A Week In Ladakh

Landscape of Ladakh

Compared to the ease in reaching the major cities across India, heading up to the mountainous region of Ladakh is considerably harder. And after you’ve reached Leh, the capital of the Jammu and Kashmir region, travelling overland to lakes, valleys and other interesting sites will involve climbing hundreds of meters up mountain passes and around meandering rivers. As such, set aside at least a week to enjoy the adventure in the this beautiful land the Indians fondly call the Crown Of India.

This itinerary assumes that you fly in from Leh. Check out Drifterplanet’s 10-day itinerary if you’re looking to head up from Delhi.

Day 1: Acclimatise in Leh

You can either get into Leh by bus or plane. Take some time off to acclimatise to the altitude – at 3,500m above sea level, Leh is high enough for travellers to exhibit acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. You can sleep it off in one of the many affordably-priced guesthouses or hostels, or stroll down the Main Bazaar, a 200m stretch of shops and cafes that serve as Leh’s city centre.

If you’re up for it, the 30-minute climb up to Leh Palace offers a 360-degree panorama of the entire city, backdropped by the majestic Himalayan mountains. Don’t rush the climb, and certainly do not try it if you’re not feeling up to the task.

View from Leh Palace
Take in the scenery like a boss!
Walking along the streets of Leh
Walking along the streets of Leh

Accommodation

If you’re looking a clean and well-furnished place with nice backpacker vibes, check out Raybo Hostel. It’s a 10-minute walk from the city centre, but offers good opportunities to find fellow travellers to share taxis or tours with. The private rooms are not expensive either, and totally worth the upgrade. Check out the latest prices and room availability.

Alternatively, visit Booking.com for the following deals:


Booking.com

Day 2: Take a bus or shared taxi to Pangong Tso

The blockbuster movie “The Three Idiots” brought Pangong Tso to the attention of a global audience, and this scenic saltwater lake is now a must-go on every Ladakh itinerary. You can get here by catching a public bus (~8 hours), renting a shared taxi (~6 hours), or for experienced riders, renting a motorbike to take on winding gravel roads that spiral up to the Changla Pass at 5,360m (17,590 ft). Note that buses run only on Saturdays, Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, so you’ll want to plan ahead if you only have a week to travel.

Where to stay in Pangong Tso

At Pangong Tso, spend a night in a guesthouse or a campsite. The average cost of accommodation range between 500-1,000 Rupees per person, mostly centered in the town of Spangmik. Don’t expect reliable electricity supply or hot water in this remote settlement, but generators power the town in the evenings to around 11pm.

There’s no need to book tents usually, since accommodation options are plentiful. In fact, you can just drop in and find a place pretty much anytime.

But if you need to shower with hot water, or can’t travel easy without making reservations ahead of time, Pangong Sarai is a relatively expensive but comfortable stay. It’s the best this remote place can offer, and some comfort goes a long way on a cold windy night. Check out the latest prices and room availability here.

Tourists by Pangong Tso
Taking in the scenery by the shores of Pangong Tso
Pangong Tso reflection
Reflection off Pangong Tso

Booking.com also offers occasional deals on accommodation options:


Booking.com

Day 3: Return to Leh

The journey back to Leh will take an equal amount of time, or possibly more if the drive back is interrupted by a roadblock caused by construction works. Roads need to be constantly repaired after each winter season, so take these incidents in stride, and it’s inadvisable to try to catch a flight or bus on the same day.

Spend the rest of the day in Leh’s many cafes, or hanging out with other travellers in your hostel. You will also want to find a shared taxi or bus to Nubra Valley. Another stunning alpine lake, Tso Moriri, is less popular, so you can start putting up a shared-taxi request at travel agencies first.

Road works on the route out of Leh
Road works on the route out of Leh
Pizza restaurant overlooking Leh Main Bazaar
Guess the pizza couldn’t wait for its photo to be taken

Day 4: Take a bus or shared taxi to Nubra Valley

The next day, head to Nubra Valley by first climbing up to the world’s highest motorable road, the Khardung-la Pass. Before you start celebrating though, you might want to note that the 5,359m height falls short of other road-based passes. Just don’t be a downer and dampen your fellow travellers’ excitement, ok?

From the Khardung-la Pass, the road winds down through Grand Canyon-esque scenery, following a river that cuts through steeps mountain slopes and eventually leads you to Diskit, which is easily recognised by an impressive monastery and a huge Maitreya Buddha statue.

From Diskit, head 11km down to Hunder, which is famed for sand dunes that look out of place in this mountainous landscape. There’s also white water rafting, ATVs and other activities to do from Hunder or Diskit. At the end of the day, you can easily find a guesthouse to spend the night in either town.

View from Diskit Monastery
View from Diskit Monastery
Maitreya statue in Diskit
The Maitreya statue in Diskit
Sand dunes of Hunder
The sand dunes of Hunder

Where to stay in he Nubra Valley

Consider these Booking.com deals, if you’re looking to book a room ahead:



Booking.com

Day 5: Return to Leh

Spend another half day travelling back to Leh, once again taking in the awe-inspiring scenery as you climb up the Khardung-la Pass.

Back in Leh, if you haven’t found a shared taxi to Tso Moriri, you’ll want to look around for one. Otherwise, you can plan a day trip to Lamayuru the next day (2 hours drive from Leh) or visit the nearby monasteries just 30 minutes outside Leh.

Leh Palace at sunset
Leh Palace at sunset

Day 6: Visiting monasteries in Thiksey, Shey and Stakna

Forgoing Tso Moriri, I rented a motorbike to visit the nearby monasteries, but you could also easily hire a driver for a half day to do the same trip. Rental motorbikes might not be in the best conditions after years of abuse by tourists, so you’ll have to inspect the bike throroughly before riding off. A 220CC Bajaj Avenger cost 1,000 Rupees for a full day rental, and a 350CC Royal Enfield costs 1,100 Rupees.

The Thiksey monastery is pretty interesting for an hour’s visit, but if you’re into pretty landscapes, the view from the Stakna monastery is simply breathtaking.

As a side trip, fans of The Three Idiots should also make a stopover at the White Lotus School, the filming location where the main protagonist Rancho was finally found by his friends (no spoilers here!)

The view from Thiksey Monastery
The view from Thiksey Monastery
Riding up remote Buddhist monasteries is an adventure in itself
Riding up remote Buddhist monasteries is an adventure in itself
The wall made famous by the Three Idiots movie
The wall made famous by the Three Idiots movie

Day 7: Spend some time for yourself and recover from the hectic week

On the last day of your whirlwind tour through Ladakh, you can spend a day buying souvenirs in the Main Bazaar, chill at a bookstore cafe, or ride on further to even more towns outside Leh. There’s too much still left to do, so a return visit might be warranted!

What should you bring?

Pack light, unless you have a private driver and car. As the weather in the Himalayas can change rapidly, make sure you have warm clothing, enough to keep you warm in single digit temperature (Celsius, that is). Here’s a short list of useful items to bring to Ladakh:

  • Winter jacket
  • Spare batteries (Smartphone, camera etc)
  • Power adapter
  • Sunglasses (the sun here is very strong)
  • Daypack (a small bag to carry out when hiking)
  • Waterproof shoes
  • A good book (for long bus rides)
  • Padlock (some hostels do not have lockers or padlocks)

Accommodation deals

Generally, staying in India is cheap, with hostel beds from as low as US$5 for a decent place. If you have a bit to spend, a private room is usually more comfortable and safer. Note that if your sharing a room with other travellers, make sure you secure your belongings. Theft happens, and it can really screw up your trip.

On a side note, buy insurance too. It’s the least you can do, if you’re saving a lot on accommodations already.

Booking.com

Conclusion

Leh is simply an amazing place to travel, and it doesn’t take a lot to get around. It’s remote, adventurous and scenic – as long as you stay safe. Look out for symptoms of altitude sickness, and take care when hiking in the mountains or riding a bike.

This itinerary covers just the area around Leh. If you have more time, there’s a lot more places to check out in Jammu and Kashmir. All you need is a sense of adventure!

Ladakh (India)

Lake Pangong Camp

Travel stories and a 7-day itinerary to travel independently in the breathtaking (literally!) mountains of the Indian Himalayas.

view of nubra valley, hunder and diskit

A Guide To Khardung La, Diskit & Hunder In The Nubra Valley Of Ladakh

Nestled amidst the mountains of the Himalayas, the Nubra Valley of Ladakh is relatively isolated from the rest of Ladakh ...
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Landscape of Ladakh

Travel Itinerary For A Week In Ladakh

Compared to the ease in reaching the major cities across India, heading up to the mountainous region of Ladakh is ...
Read More